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To the east of Therma are the cold pools and waterfalls of the Fonias River. You can walk from the parking lot after the bridge in about 45 minutes (5 km) along the Fonias Gorge to the first and most beautiful pool with a 12 m waterfall (the path is signposted). There are 2 other beautiful pools and waterfalls uphill, surrounded by wonderful scenery. The 2nd pool is about 1 hour, the 3rd pool about 2 hours from the parking lot. The passages, especially to the third pool, have a high degree of difficulty and are only partially marked by red dots on stones or trees. So caution and good shoes are required. Accidents happen again and again, especially on the way to the third pool.
Since there is no mobile phone reception there, in the event of an accident you have to rely on someone else to get help. Therefore you should never go that way alone! It is not without reason that the creek is called Murderer Creek.
However, you are rewarded by an almost untouched natural landscape and you can refresh yourself from the strenuous hike in natural water basins fed by waterfalls. Bathing naked here is an ice-cold pleasure. There are local guides for people who want to see all of the pools without the risk of getting lost.
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Erik
July/August 2024:
Fonias gorge differs from the other vathres on Samothraki in that there is no camping here. There are no post-hippes and other younger/alternative campers who like in Grias Vathers often set the tone and atmosphere (in a positive way). Instead most of the visitors are families and car tourists.
The first pool is arguable the most spectacular site on Samothraki. It is a must-see and swim. Since the path to get here is reasonably flat, the pool attracts a lot of families and ordinary tourists (car tourists). This pool is therefore almost completely textile during peak season (first three weeks of August). The same probably applies during the middle of the day on the shoulder seasons.
The second pool 35-45 minutes higher up is also large and spectacular. It is also deep enough in one place for jumping from a high cliff. This pool is at least 50 % naturist outside of peak season (first 3 weeks of August). In the middle of the day during peak season it can drop to 20 % naturist. The area immediately downstream is worth checking out.
Not many people walk up to the third pool, which is smaller but still spectacular. It’s a great and rewarding hike. There are few people at this pool outside of peak season. No one cares what people wear here or in other places along the river.