Mirtiotissa (Μυρτιώτισσα)
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"…I slip down to the house of the peasant family and borrow the Count's placid little mare, which will take me through the vineyards and woods to what is perhaps the loveliest beach in the world. Its name is Myrtiotissa. Lion-gold sand … lies smoothly against the white limestone cliff, thrown up in roundels by the force of the sea, which breaks upon a narrow sand-bank some sixty yards clear of the shore." - Lawrence Durrell, Prospero's Cell - entry for 15 January 1938
Mirtiotissa is one of the most dramatically beautiful beaches in the world. Backed by high rock cliffs, the beach can accommodate a fair number of nudists without too much overcrowding, although in July and August it can sometimes be difficult to find enough space to lie down. The great majority of the bathers in the southern part are nudists, and there seems to be no trouble with the local authorities.
There is a small waterfall of spring water (well, all right, a half inch pipe) that is convenient for washing-off after a day's swim in the sea, and at night there is usually a party of campers or stray visitors who simply want to put off the climb until the next day.
The crowd is quite cosmopolitan (lots of Scandinavians and Germans, lots of Italians, a goodly number of Americans and Brits).
17°C
The walk down to the beach is OK, but allow yourself time (and energy) for the walk back up, which is hard going! In fact, you would be better off avoiding Mirtiotissa altogether if you’re unable to handle a pretty stiff hike. Actually it's only daunting if you're parked a long way off (or on foot): the climb from the beach to the road is just 32 steps (albeit high and uneven).
Take some water with you. Although the bar on the beach sells water it tends to sell out quickly. There’s also a snack bar on the beach, and the sandwiches are highly recommended by Captain Barefoot's reporters! There is a taverna on the track, before you get to the beach, good for stopping at on the way back. About 150 m from the beach, and 250 m uphill on the road (5-10 minute walk) leading to the beach is the Elia tavern & rooms, with a big car-park which you can use if you eat or stay there. Opposite of Elia is a small parking which everyone can use and we always parked there, although it probably is full by afternoon. We can recommend the food at Elia. They are definitely naturist-friendly and we guess it's also a gay-friendly accommodation, since we spotted a leaflet about a gay party they hosted. Continuing on the track past the beach for a quarter of a mile brings you to the Bella Vista taverna, where you can enjoy lunch or a drink with a fantastic view over the sea.
The beach is as clean as a crowded beach can be and the water is as clean as anywhere in the Ionian sea. Apparently the sandwich bar owners clear up the whole beach in the evening, with the the help of like-minded naturists. The sea is very shallow, so not great for swimming, but the beach is totally sandy and much easier to get into than other beaches on the island. And shallow water warms up nicely!
Being on the west coast and at the bottom of a high cliff, the sun appears relatively late (after 10.00 in May).
Umbrellas and loungers are available. Most-recently reported prices are €10 for loungers+umbrella or €2 for umbrella only.
Many Barefooters say this was altogether one of the best beaches they had found and one rated it 98%. Others, however, thought the beach overcrowded at times and reduced the rating to 85%. Very crowded during August, be there early to get a sun bed.
Two things are getting more and more annoying. First it's the increasing amount of local men peeping constantly at female tourists. It's not unlikely they place themselves right in front of the ladies and play with themselves.
Secondly it's the ever-increasing more-or-less open use of drugs. Sad thing that devalues this nice beach.
There is a wide variety of budget-priced accommodation in Vatos and the Taverna run by Alex and Despina in Vatos is said to be both excellent in quality of food and value for money.
Word reaches the Captain that a local developer has purchased a very large piece of land overlooking the beach and he is ready to build a hotel — something that could simply erase the traditional character of the beach. Some locals are getting ready to protest but if the project goes ahead it could very well be the end for Myrtiotissa as we know it. Let us hope that such developers understand that naturists are good business. There are plenty of other places they can go if they are chased away. However, there was no sign (in September 2006) of the threatened development — just the very welcome taverna offering a break and a drink to the poor souls slogging their way back to the car park.
2014: The road is now tarred or concreted all the way down. The only car park visible was marked for the use of taverna customers.
September: the beach dimensions are smaller this year than on the above photos. This depends each year on the winter storms and currents. The beach also is much more crowded and full with sunbeds, with nearly some space to get to the water. Most people here know each other as they come back here every year. Not recommended if you are looking for a quiet day at the beach.
September: A fabulous beach. Take a moped which can be parked at the top of a dozen rough steps down to the beech. Almost 100% nudist with mainly Germans, a few Brits, Italian, Russian and a mainstay element of male locals that try to make friends with all the girls between 20 and 30! We didn't see anyone playing with themselves but they make sure they see everyone and get seen themselves - if you get my drift. Water clear, sand fine and very clean due to the guys that pick up litter regularly. Snorkelling recommended as the small islands close by are covered in fish. The kiosk provides everything you could need and prices are reasonable. The whole place has the atmosphere of a club, run by ex-hippies. It's safe, beautiful and highly recommended.
2015: May: almost entirely nude but the beach was much smaller than expected. In May the water was cool, which might be why numbers were low, but high season must be very crowded. Own transport (scooter best) really essential.
August: Just back from a lovely week based in Paleokastritsa. Mirtiotissa is a lovely beach - just a 10 minute drive away. Stop by the lovely taverna and have a coffee. Then carry on down by foot. Access, as has been said, is a steep but concrete single road then about 30 steps down. The Naturist part is the first bit you come to and was probably 50% naturist, some topless, some textile and very crowded by 3pm. Second part is definitely textile. Get there by 10 and you will be able to park a car. There's a lovely family-run "bar" (a hut, really) where they sell water, beer, will make you a fresh sandwich and where you can hire sunbeds 3 eur each and umbrellas for 2 euros each. Great place! But a heck of a walk back up the hill if the sun's still out!
2016 May: Wonderful place! The size of the beach depends on the weather. If there are more waves the beach is narrower. The second week of May there were about 40 people, mixed, couples, some with children, all ages, very nice. Some Greek single men who all seem to know each other, they seem to go there just to have a talk with each other. Must be too busy in July and August.
There is a charming Greek woman who runs a "hut"and sells drinks, only cold ones. She can make you a good sandwich. She speaks fluent English and German and some Dutch and French words. The three days I was there I always saw the same people, the woman said they come back every year.
July: Smaller than expected, crowded and many (almost majority) clothed (Greek) males (mostly voyeurs…). Umbrella and chairs are quite expensive. Strongly not recommended if you're a real barefooter/naturist. Although the sign incrusted ("nudist") in the road on the overhanging cliff is still present, it's vanishing as the nudism is vanishing on this beach… :(
August: We’re a local couple. The sandy part of the beach was too overcrowded and was 50% textile, so we went in the middle where the rocks are. From early in the morning till afternoon only some people came, some textile, some nude. The first days we went it was ok, but one day a local came next to us, although he put his towels in a completely different place. He kept standing there, semi erect with his fluids leaking, then he peed in the rocks and kept standing next to us. Some other locals passed near and they waved each other. Later we found him checking the other sides of the beach.
2017 July: Sundays are not recommended as this place is overcrowded with more than 60% non-naturists. The charming natural shower is so popular you have to queue for it (and then you are surrounded by voyeurs in clothes).
2018 October: The beach is still there, we went first week in October and it was the same as we remember from 6 years ago. Arrived at 11am to be some of the first ones, it was on Monday. We had a good spot, several hours later the beach got full, very busy with locals, mixed couples, gay men. It was maybe 70% nudist and 30% textiles. I swear there was around 60-80 people on the beach If you don't mind laying body by body this is great for you. We did not like it as much as before. Local people make it loud and smoking a lot, water is great. Left at 3PM. Go to ISSOS BEACH - much better for all.
September: A tiny beach but very laid back.
August: The beach is gone! The winter of 2017/18 has taken almost 90% of the beach. There are only a few square metres remaining, maybe room for 10 folks. The walk down to the beach is definitely no more worth the effort.
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